Tucked between the Mediterranean Sea and the French border, Empordà isn’t just another scenic region in Catalonia—it’s a cultural, artistic, and gastronomic treasure quietly redefining the way travelers explore Spain.
While Costa Brava’s coastal charms draw sun-seekers each summer, Empordà’s inland magic offers a richer experience. Picture golden-hued medieval towns, trails that weave through olive groves and pine forests, and a vibrant, creative pulse shaped by centuries of artistic energy.
Salvador Dalí may have put this region on the map, but it’s what’s happening today that makes Empordà unforgettable.
Getting Around Empordà
From Barcelona, Empordà is just a short ride away. A 40-minute high-speed train to Girona opens the door to the region, but driving is the best way to explore its scattered towns, coastal viewpoints, and remote trails. Cyclists often favor this area for its peaceful countryside and scenic backroads.
Companies like Cycle Catalan and Eat Sleep Cycle offer curated routes, eliminating the need for car rentals altogether. For hikers, the iconic Camí de Ronda coastal path is a must—it spans nearly 140 miles of clifftops and coves.
What to See and Do in Empordà
1. Discover Baix Empordà’s Village Charm
Instagram | beguresautentic | Discover the charm of Baix Empordà's lower region in 15th-century towns like Pals and Peratallada.
This lower half of the region offers postcard-perfect towns like Pals and Peratallada, where cobblestone streets and Gothic architecture transport visitors back to the 15th century. La Bisbal d’Empordà is known for its ceramic heritage, with standout spots like Sampere, Vilà Clara Ceramistes, and Gla Empordà concept shop showcasing artisan work. On Sundays, head to Verges for its open-air market, or explore antiques at the massive Antic Centre de Vulpellac.
2. Experience Art Beyond the Museums
Púbol, a quiet inland town, holds Dalí’s Castle—gifted to his wife, Gala—and gives a peek into their eccentric life. Just steps away, ceramic artist Caterina Roma crafts wood-fired tableware using local clay.
In Casavells, a 16th-century farmhouse houses a satellite gallery from Barcelona’s Alzueta, blending centuries-old architecture with striking contemporary art.
3. Embrace the Outdoors in Alt Empordà
Closer to the French border, Alt Empordà’s terrain is dramatic and wild. The Cap de Creus Natural Park is a top draw, shaped by sea winds and offering rugged trails across 450-million-year-old formations. El Port de la Selva, a nearby fishing village, is home to La Salvatge, a sleek design store with curated pieces from top Spanish artisans. Nature lovers should also visit Aiguamolls de l’Empordà, a wetland reserve home to over 300 bird species.
Don’t miss the Empúries archaeological site, where Greek and Roman ruins stand side by side, just above the sea. It’s a rare place where history is felt underfoot. The area also hosts the annual Emporiom festival, blending wellness, classical music, and ancient architecture.
Where to Eat in Empordà
Empordà’s food scene isn’t just historic—it’s forward-thinking. From traditional recipes to culinary innovation, the region blends its agricultural roots with a modern creative edge.
1. El Celler de Can Roca, just outside Empordà, remains a global food destination, sourcing local ingredients and serving experimental dishes tied to regional memory.
2. elBulli1846, housed in the former El Bulli location, is now an interactive museum preserving the legacy of chef Ferran Adrià’s groundbreaking techniques.
3. For a casual meal with depth, visit Casa Juanita in Begur, Mas Pou in Palau-Sator, or La Pahissa del Mas in Pals. Expect comforting dishes like roasted goat shoulder or smoky grilled vegetables served in rustic spaces.
4. El Mas Bar & Restaurant offers a standout lunch deal—multiple courses for just €38, set against a scenic backdrop.
Wine and Vineyards
Instagram | bodegamasoller | Sea breezes and the Tramuntana wind have shaped Empordà's winemaking for centuries.
Empordà’s winemaking goes back centuries, shaped by sea breezes and the signature Tramuntana wind. Most vineyards are concentrated in Alt Empordà, especially around Capmany. The new Perelada winery—LEED Gold-certified and designed by RCR Arquitectes—is a striking blend of sustainability and architectural flair.
Other top picks include:
1. Mas Oller (Baix Empordà): Family-run with intimate tasting rooms.
2. Cellar Brugarol: Known for its design-forward structure and small-batch production.
3. Mas Molla: A living piece of history, making wine the old way since the 1700s.
Where to Stay
Empordà’s accommodation scene is equally compelling, balancing style, privacy, and authenticity.
1. Hotel Esperit Roca
Designed by the Roca brothers, this 15-room retreat near Girona brings together fine dining and sleek design. Its wine cellar holds over 80,000 bottles, and the on-site restaurant reinterprets classics like “Toda la Gamba.”
2. Mas de Torrent
A refined choice for seasoned travelers. With a blend of old-world charm and modern luxury, this hotel offers private pools, a full-service spa, and artwork by Josep Maria Sert.
3. VIU Empordà
This curated collection of countryside homes offers unique stays—from a six-bedroom masia with an emerald pool to an art-filled farmhouse decorated with design icons.
Empordà is where heritage meets the present—quietly, confidently, and with no need for showiness. The blend of historic villages, emerging art scenes, bold culinary experimentation, and raw natural beauty sets it apart from other Mediterranean destinations.
While it’s still possible to explore without crowds, that may not last for long. Now’s the time to experience Empordà in all its understated brilliance.
