Deep in the Caucasus Mountains, where roads get rough and skies stretch wide, there is a trail that winds through one of Europe’s last truly wild corners. It is a journey through time. Welcome to Svaneti, Georgia’s remote mountain region, where stone towers still stand watch and ancient traditions hold strong.
At the heart of this rugged region sits Mestia, the base camp for adventure. From here, hikers set off on a 4-day trek to Ushguli, one of Europe’s highest villages and a UNESCO World Heritage site. No tents needed. This trail runs through mountain villages where warm beds and home-cooked meals wait at cozy guesthouses.
Hike All Day, Eat Like a Local
As you hike from village to village, you will sit down to meals prepared by locals. Think freshly baked Georgian bread, farm-made Sulguni cheese, and plum sauces so rich they could pass for dessert. You will sip homemade wine and maybe finish with a spoonful of mountain berry jam.
Jacek / Unsplash / At the end of each day, your reward is a mountain view, a full plate, and a real bed. It is all part of the Svaneti way.
The trek itself winds through alpine meadows, over mountain passes, and past ancient stone watchtowers. It is not too easy, not too hard, just enough to make the wine taste better at dinner. Each day brings new views and new villages. It is the kind of hike that keeps you looking up and moving forward.
Once in Ushguli, you will feel like you have stepped into another century. It is high, quiet, and built of stone, with sheep grazing beside medieval towers. The hike doesn’t have to end here. For the bold, there is a 5-hour trek to the foot of Shkhara Glacier, Georgia’s tallest peak.
Somewhere on that trail, you might even spot a lone vendor selling cold beer and grilled shashlik. Yes, even here, in the shadow of glaciers, someone is cooking.
More Trails with More Toasts
Back in Mestia, there is still more to see. Shorter hikes lead to the Chalaadi Glacier or the scenic Koruldi Lakes. These are day trips with big payoffs, like crystal-clear lakes, icy rivers, and views that stretch for miles. You can head out in the morning, snap some photos, and be back in time for a long lunch.
And lunch here hits different. Try Cafe Koshki or a backyard wine bar run by a local family. Georgia is the birthplace of wine. The stuff you will drink here is aged underground in clay pots called qvevri, and every glass comes with a story.
How to Get There?
Getting to Mestia takes effort, but it is part of the adventure. First, fly into Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital. From there, hop a train to Zugdidi. It is a long ride, but you will see the landscape change from city to rolling green. In Zugdidi, you will board a marshrutka, those sturdy little minibuses that bounce their way through the hills.
Somil / Unsplash / You can fly into Kutaisi for a shorter drive, though the Tbilisi route adds a little more flavor to the trip. Either way, once you reach Mestia, the mountains take over.
Remember, timing matters in the high country. June through October is prime hiking season. Earlier in June can be wet, while late October brings snow. July, August, and September offer clear skies, green hills, and cool nights. Pack layers and prepare for anything.
Bring waterproof gear, solid boots, and sun protection. You will need it all, sometimes on the same day.
